FUTURICITY

 

 HAIR DESIGN

It’s about time. Someone finally realized the Hairdressing community should have an upgraded title.Just as dressmaker upgraded to Fashion Designer.But, education comes with the upgraded title.Notably not everyone can be called  a Fashion Designer. Same goes for hair or should I say  Hair Desgners?Finaly……….I have being waiting for this day to come. And here it is.  My design Thesis of 2003 I quoted.” The only profession that still has and old title is hairdressing.”Adriana Sassoon

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/01/arts/01iht-DESIGN1.html

 

SOJOURN – STUFF MAGAZINE

SOJOURN by Elan S.

 

REVIEWS

HAIR APPARENT

by Heather Bouzan  

In case you haven’t caught on by now, the cosmetics industry isn’t just a pretty face: there are some serious chemistry brains behind your favorite volumizing mousse or age-defying foundation. But lately, we’ve been noticing beauty brands truly embracing the science-nerd side of their products instead of hiding it behind some prettily packaged gimmick or another. We, for one, are fans of this smarter side of the beauty biz – and of the industry’s recognition that its consumers know the difference between a wishful-thinking “miracle” cure and a product that actually does as it promises.More than anything, though, we love that so much of this pragmatic, results-based beauty comes with a Bostonian stamp of approval. The latest? Sojourn, a haircare line backed by the cachet of co-founder Elan Sassoon, hits shelves in early April. Available locally at Sassoon’s salon Mizu (Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 776 Boylston Street, Boston, 617.585.6498), Sojourn promotes the idea of “positive chemistry,” a concept Sassoon and his team arrived at by studying hair at its optimum natural state. Led by director of chemistry Rob Guimond, the group identified pH as a major factor in hair strength and structure; altered levels caused by environmental factors or chemical processes like hair coloring can cause locks to fade, break, or dry out. With that in mind, each Sojourn product is formulated in hair’s optimum pH range, 4.5 to 5.5.

Another factor Sojourn takes into account is one of hair’s natural building blocks: keratin. Incorporated into each product in the line, Sojourn’s Keratin Cashmere Protein works to moisturize the hair cuticle from the inside out, preventing split ends and other breakage. And if all that isn’t enough, the line is also 100% biodegradable and free of parabens, formaldehyde, sulfates, and artificial dyes and colors.

The collection itself is an ambitious one, especially for an initial launch, but we admire the way it covers all the bases. Product is divided into four color-coded subcategories – Moisture, Smooth, Volume, and Colour Preserve (their “u,” not ours) – each helmed by a targeted shampoo ($25/300 mL, $46/1 L) and conditioner ($26-$28/300 mL, $48-$52/1 L). The line’s 15 debut products range from a Sculpting Taffy ($20/150 mL), to a Leave-In Detangler ($22/250 mL), to a Monoi Oil Hair Treatment ($26/50 mL), all of which can be mixed and matched according to need and hair type.

Jumping at the chance to try Sojourn on our own heads, we snagged test samples from within each of the four groupings. Our standout favorite was the Moisture Shampoo ($25/300 mL, $46/1 L). We’d been using a drugstore brand between salon appointments, and the difference once we lathered up was clear: our hair was so soft and smooth after rinsing, we hardly felt the need for conditioner. The long-term effects of the Thermal Protection Straightener ($24/250 mL) are still to be seen, but we loved that even a healthy application didn’t leave us feeling like total greaseballs. Coupling it with with Sojourn’s Serum Smooth ($24/150 mL), we went sleek and frizz-free for a full day. And since we’re not much for gel ourselves, we had a friend slick the Wet/Dry Volume Gel ($16/150 mL) into his bedhead on a no-shower morning. He was all for its lack of stickiness, and we loved that it didn’t give off the cheesy shine that some gels can. The product scents, too, were fantastic across the board.

All said and done, the line is a debut to be commended – though we wouldn’t expect anything less from the man behind one of the city’s most tony salons. And, of course, there’s that last name of his to raise the standards even higher.

 

HAIR HEALTH FROM INSIDE  OUT

Hair Structure

CUTICLE HAIR

Hair is mostly made of a protein called keratin. Fingernails an the top layer of skin is also made of keratin protein. Each strand of hair consists of three layers.

 

1.An innermost layer or medulla.

2.The middle layer is the cortex.

3.The cortex provides strength , color, and the texture of hair.

The outermost layer is the cuticle. The cuticle is thin and colorless which protects the cortex.

The center of the hair is called the cortex. It makes up 80 percent of hair. It’s made of small fibrils that twist together to make the longer fibers stronger . The cuticle is made of of dead cells that overlap each other in several layers. The condition of the cuticle plays a part in the appearance of the hair. If the dead cells lay closely together (closed cuticles) then the hair looks shiny and healthy, however, if they lift up (open cuticles) the hair appears dull, dry, and tangles easily.

HEALTHY HAIR                                           
(Cells that lay closely together or healthy hair) 

DAMAGE HAIR        

(Lifted Hair Cells or damaged hair)

Medulla cells contain air pockets that are found inside the hair shaft which form the medullary canal. Lipids, a fat substance, is passed through to the cortex or cuticle from the medulla cells. Layers of lipids are formed to bind moisture and protein to the hair shaft. African American hair consists of 88% protein, 10-15% water, 5-10% pigments, minerals and lipids. The cortex and cuticle are formed from solid keratin fiber and the binding material is formed from amorphous keratin, which fills in the spaces inside the cortex and cuticle. The amorphous keratin holds the fibrous structure together.

Structure of the hair root

STRUCTURE OF HAIR

Benath the surface of the skin is the root of the hair , which is enclosed within a hair follicle. At the base of the hair follicle is the dermal papilla. The dermal papilla is fed by the bloodstream which nourishment the new hair produces. The dermal papilla is essential to hair growth because it contains receptors for androgen and male hormones . Androgens regulates hair growth.

 The Hair Growth Cycle

HAIR GROWTH CYCLE 

 Hair follicles grow in repeated cycles. A cycle can be broken down into three phases:

 Anagen – Growth Phase

Catagen – Transitional phase

Telogen – Resting Phase Each hair goes through the phases independent of the neighboring hairs.

The regeneration of hair is influenced by many factors:

  • health
  • hereditary factors
  • diet
  • hormone balance
  • age
  • physical condition
  • climate
  • chemical effects
  • sex
  • effects of disease

YOUR HAIR IS HUNGRY!

Your Hair is Hungry! Feed It! We all know that eating certain food is good for your body. But what about what’s good for your hair? Do you think washing and conditioning is enough? Think again. Your hair is hungry, and here’s information on how to feed it from the inside out. A healthy diet equals healthy cells, and your scalp is full of cells. It makes sense that when we eat healthy foods that help to regenerate cells, our hair will benefit. With hair growing at the rate of about ¼ to ½ inch per month, it needs plenty of iron, protein and all kinds of good nutrients to keep it healthy. Forget the supplements – you don’t need them if you eat right; let’s talk about getting what your hair needs from foods that you love. We’ll start with dark green vegetables, like spinach, green beans and broccoli. Chocked full of vitamins A and C, they help your body make sebum, that natural oil that’s found on your scalp that your hair thrives on. Dark green veggies can be eaten alone or in many recipes. (By the way, when you feel that natural oil on your scalp, massage it through to the ends of your hair before washing it out – it’s like a natural conditioner.) Let’s focus now on omega-3 fatty acids, a very good protein source. Fish oil contains plenty of omega-3, which promotes good circulation. Good circulation means more blood flow to your scalp, helping your hair stay shiny and hydrated. You can enjoy salmon and other fish, nuts, and ground flaxseed used in recipes, knowing that you’ll not only enjoy fabulous tasting foods but that you’re feeding your hair as well. Speaking of nuts, did you know they contain zinc as well? Not getting enough zinc in your diet can lead to your hair shedding, and since many of us experience thinning hair as we get older (that includes we women), we want to make sure we’re getting enough zinc in our diets.